Community Forester Returns to Eads

By Shelly Van Landingham

Forester

Hi, folks! For those of you who don’t know me, my name is Shelly Van Landingham, and I am back in Eads as your Community Forester for 2003. I work for the Colorado State Forest Service as a Forester. Our office is in La Junta, and we (Donna Davis and I) cover seven counties in Southeastern Colorado: Baca, Bent, Cheyenne, Crowley, Kiowa, Otero, and Prowers. We are mostly known as the "tree people", helping communities and private landowners manage their tree resources. The Community Forestry Program in Eads has been very successful over the past several years, providing "tree" support to the Town and its citizens.

This year my schedule will be as follows (8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. each Wednesday): November 5^th, November 12^th, November 19^th, December 3^rd, December 10^th, and December 17^th. Please contact Dawna Peck at Town Hall (438.5590) if you would like assistance from me.

This year’s Community Forestry Program is off to a much later start than usual, but trees still need care during fall and winter! In the following article you will learn why watering in the fall and winter is very important, especially during drought.

Although trees’ functions slow down during the winter months, it does not mean that all of their functions cease. Trees are still taking up water and nutrients through their root system. It is especially important to provide supplemental water during periods of drought.

Long, dry periods during fall and winter can cause injury or death of plant root systems. Affected plants may appear perfectly normal and resume growth in the spring using stored food energy. But they soon weaken or die in late spring or early summer when the stored energy runs out. Weakened plants are much more susceptible to insect and disease problems (1).

Contrary to popular belief, tree root systems (with the exception of a few species that do not normally grow in this part of the United States) DO NOT have a large, deep taproot that seeks out water: Tree roots are not like carrots (2). Instead, they have larger anchoring roots and smaller, finer water absorbing roots that generally grow within the top 12 inches of the soil. The smaller water absorbing roots can spread out as wide as the tree is tall.

Where to Water: Usually this is within the tree’s dripline. The dripline is from the trunk out to the furthest reaching branches of the tree.

Water Deeply and Slowly: Apply water so it moistens the soil within the dripline to a depth of 12 inches. Water many locations within the dripline—not just one side (2). Deep watering means watering less often but for longer periods of time. For example if you have a sprinkler system and it runs every day or every other day for only twenty to thirty minutes, this is shallow watering. If you change your watering to three times a week for an hour or so, this is deep watering. The key is to make sure you are achieving 12 inches of soil moisture. Another key is to refrain from keeping the soil constantly wet, let it dry out a bit before watering again—tree roots do not like to be constantly wet, and the tree will start to exhibit signs of stress and disease.

When to Water: During fall and winter (October thru March) water one to two times per month, depending on weather, temperature and soil conditions. Do not water when temperatures are freezing and if soil is frozen. Apply water early in the day so it will have time to soak in before possible freezing occurs during the nite. If water freezes around the base of a tree or shrub, it can damage the bark. Monitor weather conditions and water during extended dry periods—four to six weeks without precipitation (1).

Mulching: Mulch helps retain soil moisture and keeps out competition from weeds and grass. Apply mulch within the dripline and keep six inches away from the trunk of the tree. Apply at a depth of four inches. Mulch materials include woodchips, bark, leaves, evergreen needles (2), and fabric mulch (NOT BLACK PLASTIC). Fabric mulch (i.e. weedbarrier) needs to be water permeable.

Moisture is Needed to Avoid Disease: Drought stressed trees are more vulnerable to disease and insect infestations and branch dieback (2).

Do Not Fertilize Trees that are Stressed: Fertilizer salts may burn roots when there is not sufficient soil moisture present (1).

For more information check the following resources: (1) Colorado State University Cooperative Extension at www.ext.colostate.edu SIA Sheet 7.211 Fall and Winter Watering (2) Community Tree Alliance at www.watersaver.org A Guide to Tree Care During Drought Years: Save Our Shade Fall and Winter Tree Watering