Great Plains Gardening

By Edith Koeller

August 29, 2003

In a few more days September, Kiowa County Fair, and the fall season will be upon us. One wonders how soon summer and all its heat will retreat. I am ready any time now for the growing season to end. To me, the Fair signals that it is time to wind down the watering and let nature take over in the garden patch. However, this year with the replanting that was done in June the vegetables are just getting a good start producing. As a result I will probably have to settle for several more weeks post Fair time before I can put the garden to sleep, so to speak.

Looking through the Gardener’s Planting and Planning Guide, I found some tips that might be relevant to our area for the coming couple of months.

"By sewing the last seeds of spinach and lettuce in September they will sprout and go dormant with the cold weather. Next spring they will be your first crop to harvest." I remember one year having spinach ready to eat by Easter. Now that was early!

"Plant spring-blooming bulbs as soon as they are available. This allows root growth before the cold of winter and will give a longer life to the bulbs."

"Mow turf with catcher to collect fallen leaves, you may work this material into the compost pile."

"Make notes on plants that performed well and define areas that need attention for next season."

This time of year some insect activity seems to increase and/or become more obvious. Corn earworms have invaded the corn and sometimes the peppers and tomatoes. Yellow jackets are building their nests, usually in places where they are not welcome. Flies are beginning to cluster more around homes and out buildings to seek warmth from cooler nights, creating a nuisance. Boxelder bugs will be trying to invade homes again in another month or so also. Several species of large caterpillars (larvae of sphinx, cecropia, and poluyhemus moths) begin wandering around the landscape calling our attention to them. The cicadas have been "singing" for several weeks now. Are you aware that they have a natural enemy? When you come to the Fair, go to the 4-H section of exhibits and look at the insects on display in the Entomology dept. You will see a cicada killer in each of the two 4-Hers collection boxes.

Here are some interesting facts about storing vegetable and flower seeds. "In Colorado, all vegetable and flower seeds will store on a shelf at room temperature for at least one year without significant loss of germination. If there is enough seed for several years, then take further steps to ensure viability."

"A 10 year storage life can be achieved by drying seed to less that 8 percent moisture. To do so, dry seed at 100 degrees F for six hours. Obtain this temperature by spreading the seed out in direct sunlight. However, because sunlight is harsh and easily can exceed this temperature, drying in the shade is better."

"Never use a microwave oven. You may use a conventional oven if you keep the door open and the seed is not heated to more that 100 degrees. Package the seed in moisture-proof containers and store it in a refrigerator or deep freezer. A moisture-proof container is one that stores seed safely while submerged in water. Use sealed cans or jars, rather than plastic bags."

"Conditions essential to good seed storage are just the opposite of those required for good germination. Good germination occurs when water and oxygen are present at a favorable temperature. Good seed storage results when seeds are kept dry (below 8% moisture) and the temperature is kept low (below 40 degrees)."

"When seed moisture and storage temperatures are low, the presence of oxygen has not been shown to be a factor in seed longevity. Germination is unaffected by storage in atmospheres of nitrogen, carbon dioxide, partial vacuum or air."

"Relative humidity (RH) influences the moisture content of seed if it is not stored in moisture-proof containers. For example, at 15% RH seed will dry down to 6% moisture and will store safely in this condition for several years. However, at 90% RH, seed will dry down to only 19% moisture and germination will be poor after one year."

"The drier the seeds, the longer they will store. There is a chance of producing what is known as "hard seed" if moisture is reduced below 8%. Hard seed resists germination under favorable conditions because it does not absorb enough water. When planted, the seed gradually absorbs water, germinates and produces seedlings over an extended period. A seed lot containing 50% hard seed is little better than a lot containing 50% dead seed, because neither produces a stand of seedlings when they should."

"Beans and peas are particularly subject to this condition and therefore should not be dried as completely as other seed. If they have been over dried, they germinate better if exposed to a humid atmosphere for two weeks before planting."

"To be in compliance with the Colorado Seed Law, packets of vegetable seed sold in Colorado must germinate at or above a certain germination percentage (ranging from 40% for New Zealand Spinach to 80% for cucumber, lettuce, peas, and turnips)." CSU Fact sheet #7.221)

This column is the last in this year’s series. I hope you have found it to be of interest and perhaps beneficial to you.

Until next time…