Great Plains Gardening
June 13, 2003
In view of the devastating hail and wind storm that hit portions of our county last Friday, I’d like to address the question, "Is it worth trying to replant my garden?" To our farmers who saw their potentially above average wheat crop reduced to nothing or nearly so, their newly planted crops washed under or shredded, this question may seem to be a minor one to them. However, they have to be asking themselves the same question in a broader sense. What to replant depends largely on the maturity dates of the different crops with an eye on the potential first frost date this fall.
One of the first rules for the gardener after a storm such as last weekend’s is not to view and assess the damage immediately. Who follows this rule? I don’t, and go out right away and become depressed. One must remember that plants that have good root systems usually can recover and continue growing, and still beat the replanted crop. After all, the gardener has to wait until the ground dries out enough to go in and do the replanting anyway. It is at this time that one makes the decision to replant or not.
Mid-June does seem to be a bit late for some things, but if you are willing to use covers this fall if frost comes early, it can still be done. Be sure to check the seed packet for maturity dates. One may want to switch to an earlier maturing variety than what has been normally planted.
Checking with Utah State University’s vegetable planting chart, I found a number of items that can still be planted. Remember last year that I mentioned that our area is more compatible with Utah than the Front Range? Celery, okra, muskmelon, pumpkin, winter squash, tomato, and watermelon can be planted up to June l5. Green beans, beets, cabbage, cauliflower, and swiss chard can be planted up to July 1. Broccoli can be planted as late as July l5 for a fall harvest. It is possible one may be able to plant dry beans, carrots, cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, summer squash, and sweet corn and still get a good harvest before frost. Again, check your seed packets for maturity dates.
One thing that can be helpful, especially if it keeps raining and it isn’t possible to replant right away. Seed the wanted veggies in flats or pots and transplant in the garden when it does get dry. Even vine crops can be transplanted successfully if they have no more than 4 or 6 leaves.
Friday’s storm also left branches broken and fallen from trees. These wounds need to be dealt with also. CSU Extension Office has a fact sheet #7.207, which deals with pruning deciduous trees. Information from this sheet will be helpful in repairing some of the damage, although if some of the fallen branches are large enough, they may have stripped the bark as it fell. Most important is keeping invading organisms and cankers from attacking the tree.
The fact sheet mentions the barrier zone. "As trees grow, they form natural barrier zones at the base of each branch. Should storm damage or pruning occur, these barriers protect the tree from invading organisms. This barrier zone is not at the exact point where the branch and trunk appear to join when viewed from the outside. The barrier zone actually is a short distance (usually less than 1 inch) away from the trunk. Thus, when a branch is flush cut, the natural barrier zone is removed."
"To identify the barrier zone, look closely at a branch. Near its base, there is a distinct swelling or collar, and often a ridge of bark that is distinct from the bark areas on either side. This ridge varies according to the angle of the branch as it is attached to the stem. The barrier zone is located in the collar area outside of the branch bark ridge. When you prune away a branch, always cut just outside of this collar to preserve the barrier zone. Do not, however, leave stubs beyond the collar. Such stubs will die back and allow decay organisms to get a foothold to enter the tree."
"Wound dressings have been shown to interfere with the natural development of callus tissues that eventually close the pruning wound. In some cases, wound dressings can even harbor disease organisms, much like what occurs when a band-aid is left on a skin cut too long. It is far more important to make the cut smooth, outside of the collar and allow the wound area to dry. If a wound dressing is desired for aesthetic purposes, use a very thin coat, just enough to darken the wound area. Aerosol sprays of water-emulsified asphalt sold in garden centers are best. Do not use oil-base paints, thick tars or other materials that contain petroleum solvents."
The above mentioned fact sheet has illustrations to show the correct way to do this pruning.
Flowers also took a beating from the storm. It is important to trim damaged parts from the plant so it can use its energy to keep producing. Remove any severely damaged plants from the bed. Insects are attracted to stressed plants so be vigilant in the next few weeks.
Plants are surprisingly resilient and with just a little help from the gardener can continue to thrive despite adversity.
Until next time…